Installing and Caring for Sod

     We recommend the top 2" of soil to be loosened. If you have extremely weak soil you may prefer testing through your local county extension service or you may need additional soil brought in if necessary. We also recommend lime and high phosphate fertilizer under the sod (i.e. 16-25-12 Turf Starter). Place edges as close together as you can. Stagger your seams as if you were laying brick. To make a piece fit, just cut with shovel or knife. Then, and most importantly, water your sod. For the first couple of weeks, keep it watered well and make sure the water is getting to the soil underneath. Watering will need to be increased during hot times. Proper watering is essential to the establishment of the sod. If the sod lays over and 'mats' itself down, you will need to take a leaf rake and fluff it up. Air and water must flow freely for your grass to live.
     Mowing - once your sod needs mowing, go ahead. Never mow more than 1/3 of the height of your sod at a time. Sharp blades are a key to healthy grass. We recommend fescue sod to be mowed at 2½ - 3". If the mower is 'picking up' the sod, wait until it grows in more.

Fertilizer Schedule

Fall Fertilization
Fertilize fields in September at the rate of one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet and again in November when the grass is still green but actively growing.

Winter Fertilization
Follow the September - November fertilization guidelines. Fertilize between February 15 and March 15 at the rate of one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet.

Spring Fertilization
If the grass was not fertilized in February, fertilize before March 15 at the rate of one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet. Pre-emergents should be applied to control weeds, especially crabgrass which should be applied before April 15 if below 2000', and before May 1 if over 2000'. For more detailed fertilization information, feel free to contact us at 888-685-3642 or email us at turfmountain@bellsouth.net

Summer Fertilization
We do not recommend.